Travel diary, discoveries and curiosities among Leopardi’s Rolling Hills of Infinity
“Life is too short to drink mediocre wines.”
Wolfgang Goethe
The Coroncino farm is situated just a few kilometres from the city Staffolo. The area which is denominated as “ Verdichio hills “. Also here I met passionate people with the grand personality who are not only motivated for the wine production, but who work with the full respect for the nature. I like their motto : “ we are finders of wines “ Such an approach and concept to work is determined by the noninvasive influence on the nature.
We discussed the consequences of usage of chemistry in the agriculture. Unfortunately , not everybody understands the necessity to cultivate the land without chemical substances which, unfortunately , we find at different products which the land provides us.
The sad story of the famous DDT can be mentioned . It was used in the all Europe from 1944 till 1970s, when finally its application of DDT was forbidden. Unfortunately, even if more than fourty years from those times ,we find the traces of DDT in fruits and vegetables, and even worse , in the drinkable water.
But let’s speak about more pleasant things. All vineyards of Coroncino farm are not fertilised, this decision which was made in 1993 completely have changed the style to keep vineyards and grapevines.
The solution not to change the nature, but to follow the natural process has evolved the different approach and radical changes of the attitude of the work.
Without enrichment of the land by chemical substances, the grapevines are forced to battle to survive and, interestingly , such a battle for survival represents the best way how to obtain the top quality of the wine, wine which becomes more complex and deeper. 97% of vineyards are cultivated by Verdicchio grapes, the rest is cultivated by Trebbiano and Biancame grapes varieties.
Grafts of vineyards are recuperated from Gaiospino vineyard.
The used yeasts are autochthonous.
Gaiospino was born at the vineyard Spescia, at Cupramontana, at the area where the old chalk cave were located and the soil is calcareous one. The vineyard is dated 1979. For the production of wine only the free-run must is used. Only the full matured grapes are collected . Aprox 20-30 % of wine passed the fermentation at the 500 l oak drums and stay on lees at least 16-18 months . Colour of wine is an intensive pale yellow . Aroma of a green apple, citrus. On the palate it is fresh, sapid, mineral and persistent.
Coroncino, Verdichio dei Castelli di Jesi Superiore,comes from the vineyard Coroncino, located at Staffolo. It grows at mostly clayey soil. The colour is pale yellow with green reflection. On the palate there are presented very delicate aromas of white flowers, acacia, hawthorn . The wine offers freshness, on the palate is warm , bold, sapid . The wine from which you would never be tired.
Bacco. Verdichio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore. The basic wine of farm if we could say this, but it is difficult to give this characteristic to the wine with such a strong character and expression of territory. Colour of wine is pale yellow,with aromas of white flowers, acacia, broom, honey. Mouthfeel fruity with slightly bitter aftertaste. The wine is sapid, warm, persistent. Wine for everyday drinking with big pleasure.
Gaiospino Fumé, wine fermented in oak barrels, left for maturation without any racking for two years as minimum. Aroma notes of nuts and herbs, palate is warm and persistent. The wine for meditation.
All wine labels are a small piece of art, they are very particular as the wines at which they are attacked, practically every year the labels are changed or modified.
I would like to thank Lucio Canestrari and his gentle wife Mrs Fiorella for their hospitality and for a possibility to taste those marvellous wines. I am always very glad to meet persons who are passionate and far-sighted.
The idea of transferring from Rome and radically change the life for a realisation of theirs visions of wine producer of excellent products is something what deserves my deepest admiration.
Let’s continue to discover the others marvellous farms inside of this magnificent Region.
